A Place for Saws

I’ve got enough saws floating around now that I decided I needed a better way to store them. My little till will be a pretty simple box, dovetailed at the corners, with a drawer (two maybe?) underneath for saw sharpening stuff.

The plan is to store the saws handle down, blade up. The handles will rest on a piece of dowel and the blades will slot into a series of kerfs.

The dovetails came out pretty well, though I screwed up the top rail my first go round, mismarking the location of the pins. They fit great, they were just offset by an inch or so. Sloppy. I also got to cut my very first dado by hand.

 

White pine is fun stuff. Easy to work, smells nice, compresses well. And it’s cheap here in upstate NY.

 

A Saw Bench

A traditional English saw bench

While working through the Stickley Lost Side Table project, I realized that my current saw bench, a basic five-board bench, was less than ideal for ripping stock. It’s a bit too wide, so when I get a narrow piece out over the edge, the bench is quite tippy.

Chris Schwarz has been teaching a two-day class on building a traditional English saw bench for a while; a few years ago a DVD was produced following the class. I like the design of this bench; it’s has a narrower top, which means you don’t have to stretch as far when ripping. Plus, it’s fairly straightforward to build from basic construction lumber. I picked up a couple 16′ 2×12’s from the local lumber yard and set them aside to dry. I used 2×12’s because they tend to be clearer (free of knots) than shorter, narrower lengths and you can usually get some decent quarter sawn material out of the edges.

I started out ripping the boards I needed from the 2x12s, leaving a bit of room for planing and shooting to length. The top board is about 5″ wide by 32″ long, roughly a hand width by half my height. The bench will end up being 19″ tall, the height from the floor to the bottom of my kneecap. The legs were all ripped out, shooting for 2.5″ wide, but they all vary. They all vary in absolute thickness as well, one of the consequences of working by hand.

After I sawed the boards to rough size, I 3-squared each of the legs (face + two long edges) and then squared up (shot) one end. From there, I marked out the little bird’s mouth that fits into a gain in the top board.

Bird's Mouth on the top of each leg

Cutting the bird’s mouth is just like cutting a tenon. Saw across the top, then down each side to establish a kerf. Then just follow the kerfs all the way to the bottom.

To clean up the joint, I deviated from Chris’s method (disobey me?). I found that lining up the knife lines against a wooden parallel clamp to be too fiddly. There’s a fair bit of slop in the cams on my set of clamps, so the two wooden pieces wouldn’t stay in plane. I just attacked it with a wide chisel and a shoulder plane, working to the knife lines. I also didn’t gang up the legs and plane them like they show in the video; my legs were all different thicknesses and the out face is not a true face, so it would have just thrown all my shoulder plane work out the window.

Top gains cut

The gains were easy to layout and cut. I made a mark 4.5″ inches from each end, then laid each leg against the mark and used that to layout the far side of the gain. I sunk them 3/4″ into the leg, using a cutting gauge to lay out the baseline and a square to mark the edges. Saw down, then pop out most of the waste with a chisel, being careful to watch how the grain runs. It’s very easy to take too big a bite and have the grain run out way below your marked line, especially in this hem/fir/wtf that I used.

Glue, clamps and an overnight wait and the legs were on.

Short stretchers in glue

This morning I pulled the clamps and started work on the short braces. I used a 12″ ruler as a stop block to mark a spot on the inside of each leg, then clamped the short braces in place, making sure the two braces were coplanar by sighting over them from a distance, much like using winding sticks.

I marked the shoulder line right from the piece, then pulled it all back apart. Some more sawing (1/2″ fillister this time) and cleanup with a router plane and the braces were done. Back into clamps and glue for another day long bake.

Hopefully tomorrow I can add the long stretcher that connects the braces, add some nails and finish it off.

Stickley Lost Side Table: Complete

Stickley Lost Side Table. Mahogany & Black Walnut.

Finally.

It feels like I’ve been working on this little table forever. In calendar time, I think I’m at 9 months, but I guess that’s what happens when you go from one kid to two. Little bits here and there, dimension some stock, cut a mortise, fit a tenon. All in all, my best guess on this around 30 hours of work, but this was a bunch of firsts for me.

  1. First time working with Genuine Mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla) Man, what a beautiful wood to work.
  2. First table with drawer.
  3. First half-blind dovetails and angled at that
  4. First set of compound joinery, between the splayed legs and the through tenon on the stretcher
  5. First keyed through tenons
  6. First piece of furniture, not a shop project I can beat up.
  7. First time using shellac as a finish.

I learned a lot with this project. It looks fairly simple, but the splayed legs and the cross stretcher with the keyed through tenon make laying things out a bit challenging.

A Sign of Accurate Sawing

The kerf

A few nights back I was sawing the side aprons for my Stickley Lost Side Table to length. My procedure is to mark all of the faces using a knife, nip out a small starter notch for the backsaw, and then saw away the waste; it’s pretty standard stuff.

Knifing in the lines does a few things: it gives you a clean entry line on the shoulder, it makes it easier to track the saw, and if you cut things fat, it gives you a nice place to register a chisel when paring. One thing I discovered is that it also lets the waste piece break away before the saw gets to the bottom of the work piece.

In the picture above, notice the little shelf of wood left on this piece of waste? The top of the shelf is where my knife scored the wood fibers. The width is the width of the kerf on my backsaw. I looked through my other waste pieces, and this only appears when your cut is square and plumb, that is, when you’re exiting the cut with the saw right against the marking lines.

If you see the shelf, you made a good cut.

The Essential Woodworker for $10

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If you have any interest in hand work in woodworking, a wonderful introduction is The Essential Woodworker by Robert Wearing. This formerly out-of-print book was brought back by Lost Art Press a while back and is now being offered as a DRM-free ePub for $10 with a Kindle version coming soon.

This book is my go to reference whenever I have a question on how to build a piece of carcase furniture. It also includes some nice exercises to help learn essential hand tool skills, like planing a board flat and sawing accurately. It’s finely written, well edited and quite clear. For $10, you cannot go wrong.

The hard cover edition is also available for $23.